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Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen veste i fantasmi e li manda in passerella

A Brooklyn c’è una ragazza che impasta la memoria con la colla. Si chiama Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen, e con carta, lenzuola abbandonate e argento ossidato fabbrica apparizioni. Non è solo moda: è messa in scena, è scultura, è body politics travestita da guardaroba vittoriano post-cyber.

Nel 2022 fonda il brand che porta il suo nome e subito il confine tra atelier e Wunderkammer si fa sottile. I suoi abiti – corsetti sagomati, gonne a ruota rigonfie, bustier come reliquie – sembrano usciti da un baule di famiglia che ha attraversato la guerra, la carestia e un rave berlinese.

Il suo tocco distintivo? Il papier-mâché. Sì, proprio quello. Ma al posto delle marionette, ci sono corpi veri, sensuali e vulnerabili, da modellare con una brutalità dolce. Zoe non cuce: stratifica, assembla, imbastisce come se stesse facendo un restauro d’anima.

Ogni pezzo è unico, come una reliquia d’amore tossico o un ricordo che ha preso forma. C’è chi dice “ha un gusto rétro”, chi parla di eco-vittoriano. Ma Zoe è oltre: una scultrice tessile che archivia sentimenti sotto forma di gonna a campana.

Ora guarda avanti. Con la stessa mano che plasma bustier di lino irlandese degli anni ’40, Zoe disegna anche jeans extralarge, canotte-corsetto e camicie da giorno da portare con addosso ancora un po’ di notte. La sua ultima collezione è fatta di lenzuola consumate – di quelle che hanno visto tutto.

“Sto cercando di creare una struttura commerciale”, ha raccontato a Vogue. Eppure, ogni cosa in lei sembra parlare una lingua segreta. Non è una designer. È un codice.

A breve salirà in passerella a New York. Ma tanto, l’abbiamo già vista nei sogni.

Anatomia dell’abito

[001] — Corsetto in lino irlandese (1940s)
Orlo sagomato, chiusura posteriore nascosta, struttura rigida ottenuta senza stecche ma con strati di carta incollata. Interno grezzo volutamente visibile.

[002] — Camicia damascata manica a gigot
Tessuto riciclato, pattern floreale scolorito, bottoni in madreperla recuperati. Le spalle sono esasperate, come a sostenere un peso invisibile.

[003] — Gonna a ruota in cotonina cerata
Tre strati: tela grezza, organza vintage, carta velina incollata e trattata con resina. Ruches applicate a mano come nervature.

[004] — Mummificazione couture: cuciture a vista, tiranti irregolari, bordi grezzi. È stretto, quasi doloroso, ma è anche un feticcio. I pantaloni beige, morbidi ma segnati da fili e lacci pendenti, proseguono il linguaggio della decostruzione emotiva. È un abito che racconta ferite e legami spezzati, ma con la testa alta.