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Nel suo mondo, la moda si ricicla, si decompone, poi rinasce come arte indossabile.

Nel suo studio di Amsterdam, tra manichini senza testa, strati di denim scomposto e borse Gucci smembrate, Duran Lantink non taglia vestiti: opera interventi chirurgici sul sistema moda. Ogni capo è un Frankenstein couture, ricucito da brand morti, capi usati, tessuti dimenticati. “Io non creo”, dice con un sorriso storto, “io rimonto.”

Eppure, nel 2025, il mondo sembra aver finalmente capito il suo linguaggio. Dopo anni da outsider, ora siede sulla poltrona creativa di Jean Paul Gaultier, uno dei templi più sacri (e teatrali) della couture. Ma anziché piegarsi all’archivio, lo incendia dolcemente: Lantink non cita Gaultier, lo disseziona. Nella sua prima collezione, corsetti decostruiti incontrano camicie da football americano, mentre completi maschili vengono “interrotti” da inserti lingerie. Il corpo? Frammentato, queer, mutante.

L’eleganza della rovina

Il suo tratto è sporco, impreciso, viscerale. Gli orli sono grezzi, le cuciture visibili, i loghi spezzati. Ma tutto è intenzionale. Ogni capo nasce dalla collisione tra lusso e scarto, da quella tensione che ti fa sentire qualcosa di familiare… eppure disturbante. È moda post-trauma, post-glamour. È ciò che resta dopo il collasso del fast fashion.

Lantink lavora con ciò che altri buttano: stock invenduti, capi di seconda mano, rimanenze di magazzino. Ma non si tratta solo di sostenibilità – è una presa di posizione politica. “Il sistema è tossico”, dice, “ma non possiamo uscirne con abiti neutri e puliti. Serve qualcosa di disturbante, che sporchi la passerella di verità.”

Dalla vagina pants al Woolmark Prize

Il mondo l’ha conosciuto per i suoi “vagina pants” indossati da Janelle Monáe nel video di Pynk, ma ridurre Lantink a quell’iconico scatto sarebbe miope. Oggi è vincitore del Woolmark Prize, finalista LVMH, e sempre più richiesto da pop star e stylist d’élite: Beyoncé, Billie Eilish, Doja Cat lo indossano come manifesto più che come look.

Eppure, Duran non ha mai abbandonato l’etica da laboratorio punk. Le sue collezioni sono costruite attorno al concetto di “wardrobe surgery”: riutilizzare il già esistente non come compromesso ecologico, ma come linguaggio radicale. In un’epoca in cui tutti parlano di sostenibilità, lui la esegue con brutalismo poetico.

Che forma ha il futuro?

“La moda del futuro sarà strana, ibrida, sporca e bellissima,” dice. “Sarà fatta da mani diverse, materiali impuri, storie sovrapposte. Non ci sarà più una linea pulita: ci sarà caos, e nel caos troveremo il senso.”

Forse è per questo che, oggi, guardando una delle sue giacche ricavate da cinque abiti differenti, non ci chiediamo più “Chi lo indosserebbe?”.
Ci chiediamo: quale versione di me stesso potrei diventare, indossandolo?