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Jesamie ha 28 anni, è nato negli Stati Uniti e oggi abita Berlino. Lust Latex è nato per necessità, per sopravvivere, e si è trasformato in ossessione, linguaggio, manifesto. “È il mio sfogo, la mia piattaforma, il mio tempo“, dice. Non è solo moda, non è solo fetish: è una creatura viva che ti sfida a guardarti allo specchio e a non distogliere lo sguardo.

Per Jesamie, il latex è una lingua. Horror Latex, come lo chiama, è il suo alfabeto oscuro, un codice per raccontare ciò che altrimenti resterebbe impronunciabile: la violenza dei corpi marchiati, la bellezza della vergogna, la forza di ciò che la società chiama mostruoso. Le sue armature sembrano incarnare mutazioni, creature che crescono oltre la carne: maschere, protesi, estensioni. “La prima volta che mi sono incappucciato in lattice nero, con microfori per respirare, ho sentito la pelle cambiare. La vergogna cucita addosso dalla violenza anti-trans si è dissolta. E il mostro dentro di me ha respirato“.

Le visioni lo tormentano: “arrivano di notte, in treno, mentre parlo con qualcuno”. Le insegue, le cattura, le deposita sul quaderno che non la abbandona mai, popolandolo di figure, di regine decadute che abitano i suoi sogni. Ne scaturiscono silhouette chirurgiche e al tempo stesso barocche, ossessive fino al dettaglio più minuto. “Ogni cucitura, ogni bordo, ogni finitura deve guadagnarsi il suo posto. Non c’è spazio per la casualità”.
Il lattice lo seduce e lo sfida: nero, specchiante, viscerale, impone le sue regole a chi osa domarlo. E il suo universo estetico è segnato da un’ossessione per la medicalizzazione e per il metallo: l’acciaio inox che riflette, freddo, in dialogo col nero organico del lattice. “È una combinazione che non riesco a smettere di inseguire“.

Il suo atto creativo è un rito privato, non una performance. La scena comincia quando qualcun altro indossa le sue creature, e le anima. Per Jesamie, la comunità fetish e goth – in cui si muove da anni – è il vero humus di questa pratica. È lì che la bellezza e l’abiezione si stringono, dove il corpo è ancora un territorio da esplorare, da reinventare. Berlino, con la sua energia decadente, le sue sottoculture intrecciate, le sue boutique piene di gomma e odore di pelle, è stata la prima città in cui ha sentito di essere a casa. “È veloce, sporca, affascinante. È sempre un passo oltre“.

Ogni pezzo è un atto di ribellione. Ribellione contro una società che già ti chiama ribelle solo per esistere, se sei trans. “Attraverso il mio lavoro, ridefinisco quell’etichetta. La prendo in mano, la svuoto e la riempio di me. L’autonomia è una forza straordinaria“.

E sì, il fetish può essere politico: perché hai paura di ciò che vedi? La domanda resta sospesa come un coltello. Sotto le maschere, sotto le armature, sotto la gomma che stringe e amplifica, si nasconde un desiderio feroce: “voglio che chi indossa le mie creazioni si senta invincibile. Che riscopra la propria potenza“.

I veri mostri, dice Jesamie, sono altri: il capitalismo predatorio, la povertà, la polizia dei corpi, la cancellazione dei diritti, l’espropriazione delle vite. Ma i mostri che plasma, quelli, sono suoi. E attraverso di loro regala agli altri – almeno per un momento – la possibilità di sentirsi liberi.

Oggi Lust Latex evolve. Dalla piccola pelletteria agli abiti, dalle armature agli organismi viventi. Più moda, più narrazione, più sperimentazione. “C’è ancora tanto che devo evocare“. L’estetica è sempre più spinta verso la bellezza del grottesco, in un dialogo continuo con riferimenti come American McGee’s Alice, Shozin Fukui e le visioni di Olivier Theyskens e Dilara Findikoglu.

Jesamie non disegna vestiti. Evoca mostri. E ci invita a guardarli dritti in faccia. Non per esorcizzarli, ma per imparare finalmente ad amarli.